NORTH FORT MYERS
Development has slowly pushed its way out of downtown Fort Myers and into
North Fort Myers, where new gated communities mingle with mini farms. Waterfront
(canals, lakes and the Caloosahatchee River) is often found in the mix, where $1
million homes offer deep-water sailboat access. The area has a solid commercial
base and a major tourist attraction—the Shell Factory and Nature Park with its
Waltzing Waters. The river, Cape Coral and Charlotte County define the area’s 70
square miles.
PINE ISLAND
An island just 17 miles long by two to four miles wide, Pine Island offers
several distinct personalities—from the arts and fishing town of Matlacha on
Little Pine Island to the peace and quiet of Bokeelia on its northern tip and
the more populated St. James City at its southern point. One thing you won’t
find on Pine Island: beaches. There aren’t any, and residents are content for it
to stay that way.
Matlacha
Home of the “fishingest bridge in the world,” Matlacha was originally
inhabited by squatters, who built fishing camps along Pine Island Road. Today
these small cottages are considered historic gems, and some are now used as art
galleries and shops. Side streets display Matlacha’s fishing and shrimp fleet
and a combination of older and newer homes, most on the canals that reach into
Matlacha Pass. Residents like the area’s laid-back ambiance and its
walk-to-anywhere location. There’s even a park, bait and tackle shops, a few
restaurants and a bar. Pastel buildings and painted light poles reflect
Matlacha’s artistic side.
Pineland/Bokeelia
Tiny Pineland, found at the three-point convergence of Pine Island and
Stringfellow roads, has amenities reserved for much larger places. There’s a
post office (albeit one of the country’s smallest), a marina, a bible college, a
marine research institute, an Indian archaeological site and even a golf course.
Pineland also boasts a working novelist—Randy Wayne White. There’s a restaurant
and hotel—the 1926 Tarpon Lodge and Restaurant, overlooking Pine Island Sound.
Charters to the surrounding islands—Sanibel, Captiva, Useppa and Cabbage Key (a
restaurant there is rumored to be Jimmy Buffet’s inspiration for Cheeseburger in
Paradise)—are available at nearby Pineland Marina.
Bokeelia seems virtually
undiscovered despite its port, restaurants (the Lazy Flamingo and Captain Cons,
which serves fabulous grouper) and art galleries. Homes here embody Florida’s
past—some have white picket fences, tin roofs, widow walks and wraparound
porches for watching the sun set over Black Bay and Charlotte Harbor. Anglers
say Bokeelia’s shallow waters are ideal for snook, trout and grouper.
St. James City
About two-thirds of Pine Island’s residents live in St. James City, accessed
eight and a half miles due-south on Stringfellow and past Elks, Moose and
fisherman’s clubs and co-ops. St. James City has a thriving commercial base with
businesses that take advantage of its ties to the sea. There are several marinas
and fishing charters and establishments like the Waterfront Restaurant and
Marina, said to attract diners from 50 miles away with its burgers and grouper
sandwiches, and the Double Nichol Pub, a tavern and sandwich shop, where the
specialty is “the Father,” a toasted sandwich with bologna, pepperoni, salami,
cappicola, provolone, jalapeños, oil, lettuce, tomato and onion.
SAN CARLOS PARK, THREE OAKS
Escalating home prices, proximity to the international airport and
university, and a new shopping center (the mega Gulf Coast Town Center) have
placed this south Lee County community on an upward spiral. Close to the major
amenities of its larger neighbors—Fort Myers to the north and Bonita Springs to
the south—San Carlos Park and Three Oaks are the ideal midpoint for folks who
work in Naples and Fort Myers. Many residents moved into San Carlos more than
five years ago, when homes sold in the low $100,000s and attracted young
families and first-time buyers. Two recreational facilities—the 36-acre Three
Oaks Park and the Karl Drews Community Center—offer programs for children and
adults, youth sports and playgrounds. Baseball and soccer fields at Three Oaks
Park stay busy most weekday and weekend nights. Many of the vacant lots from a
few years ago now have homes. Lots in San Carlos tend to lack deed restrictions
and city water and sewer service (a majority of homes use wells and septic
tanks). Newer areas, like neighboring Three Oaks, have central water and sewer
services and deed restrictions.
RURAL LEE COUNTY
Even Lee County’s rural edge is changing. Gated communities along Palm Beach
Boulevard/S.R. 80, once considered too far removed from the amenities of Fort
Myers, are proliferating. Verandah, located along the Orange River, and River
Hall, a 2,000-acre community by new-to-Southwest-Florida developer LandMar
Group, take advantage of the slower way of life this area affords. Far-off towns
like Alva and Buckingham have also kindled interest from buyers who want a more
rural lifestyle and larger lots that can accommodate mini-ranches and horses.
Many of the homes in Fort Myers Shores, found along the south bank of the
Caloosahatchee River east of S.R. 31, back into canals leading to the river.
Travel farther east along S.R. 80 and signs of civilization and development
relax. Land restrictions have kept vacant property in Buckingham, the site of a
World War II Army training camp for airplane gunners, fairly large in size.
Neighboring Olga is located on the Caloosahatchee. Development has followed with
a new Publix-anchored shopping center at routes 80 and 31. Recreational outlets
are just miles apart—a marina at Sweetwater Landing, Hickey Creek Mitigation
Park, Franklin Lock Recreational Area and the Caloosahatchee Regional Park, a
768-acre facility on the north shore with two walking trails, mountain bike and
equestrian trails, primitive campsites and breathtaking views of the namesake
river.
Just east of the park is Alva (Latin for white), named by Danish sea
captain and botanist Peter Nelson for the white flowers growing along the
riverbank. As one of Lee County’s first county commissioners, Nelson platted out
the village of modern-day Alva, laying out a network of streets and setting
aside property for schools, parks, churches and the first library in South
Florida. Today Alva’s surrounding citrus groves and pastures are being
transformed into gated communities, five- to 10-acre residential tracts and
grand riverfront homes surrounded by moss-draped live oaks. Alva’s quaint
century-old United Methodist Church is the oldest church in continuous use in
Southwest Florida.
COLLIER
Florida’s largest county, Collier, has shed its fishing-town persona for a
more polished, sophisticated identity that often attracts celebrities and
luminaries who shop, dine and vacation here. That’s not to say that you can’t
still find a slower, Old Florida vibe in Collier County among the unspoiled
mangroves and backwater bays along the Everglades and Ten Thousand Islands.
While it still attracts its fair share of seasonal retired residents, Collier
County is getting younger. In fact, those aged 25 to 49 are the fastest-growing
population group, and the county’s median age has dropped to 43 in recent
years.
The Gordon River and Wiggins Pass immortalize Collier County’s first
modern-day settlers—Roger Gordon and Joe Wiggins, who arrived in Naples in the
late 1860s. When Louisville Courier-Journal owner Walter Haldeman arrived in
1887, he and fellow well-heeled Kentuckians helped turn Naples into a winter
playground for the rich and famous. The Naples Hotel soon became the
social center for visiting celebrities, among them Thomas Edison, Harvey
Firestone, Greta Garbo and Gary Cooper.
In the 1920s, Barron Gift Collier
bought more than a million acres of swampland, including most of Naples. He then
pledged his own money to build the 275-mile Tamiami Trail, linking Tampa to
Miami, which officially opened in April 1928. The completion of I-75 and the
Southwest Florida International Airport some 60 years later put Collier County
officially on the map. Today it’s a study in paradoxical worlds—stretches of
beaches boasting multimillion-dollar mansions and luxury high-rises and quiet
fishing communities that recall another time and place. Home prices in some
areas now command more than $20 million—well above the $125 of a
turn-of-last-century beachfront lot.
Beaches
Consistently ranked among the world’s best, Collier County’s 17 miles of Gulf
beaches can be reached within a half-hour drive from almost anywhere in the
county. Forming a winding ribbon of shell-strewn white sand, the county’s
coastline extends south from Barefoot Beach at the Lee County line to Marco
Island, the largest of the area’s famed Ten Thousand Islands. The shore
alternates between more than three miles of city and county beach parks, state
preserves, neighborhoods of beachfront cottages, mansions and high-rises, and
the Gulf-front resorts in Naples. Travel south from Naples and beaches give way
to a mangrove-tangled coastline that signifies the beginning of the Everglades.
Most beachfront homes are found in named communities, gated and non-gated. Those
not directly on the Gulf are within an easy walk and boast something their
beachfront siblings can’t—deep water for a prized boat-in-your-backyard
lifestyle. Yet living on the beach comes with a cost: higher home prices and
some lack of privacy (all beaches are public).
Barefoot Beach is flanked by
a county beach park and the 324-acre Barefoot Beach Preserve state park, where
visitors are updated daily on wildlife sightings—everything from bottle-nose
dolphins to sea turtles and gopher tortoises. The neighborhood is a short walk
or bike ride away from several restaurants (seafood is the specialty) and retail
stores along Bonita Beach Road. The adjoining Bonita Springs beach access offers
picnic and restroom amenities and wide, shell-crushed beaches. Some of the best
hotdogs around can be found under the umbrella of a curbside vendor. Nearby
Doc’s Beach House, a two-story landmark, serves up burgers, sandwiches, seafood,
a fabulous grouper sandwich and pitchers of beer. Open until 11 p.m., it’s also
one of the most popular sunset-viewing spots on Bonita Beach.
Homes in
Barefoot Beach, found in just a handful of neighborhoods, range from
condominiums, villas, cottages and three- and four-story Mediterranean and
Florida-style homes. “Homes have become bigger and more expensive over the
years,” says Barefoot Beach Realty’s Nick Fontana, who’s been selling Barefoot
Beach property for nearly 20 years and has seen most of the neighborhood’s
original beach cottages razed and replaced.
Vanderbilt Beach, south of
Barefoot Beach, offers a multitude of waterfront options: single-family homes
along canals, bays and the beach, and Gulf-front high-rises with views of the
Gulf and Sanibel Island. The neighborhood demonstrates Southwest Florida’s ease
in the art of juxtaposition; it’s sandwiched between the natural beauty of
Delnor-Wiggins Pass State Park on the north and the cosmopolitan resorts,
boutiques and restaurants to the south at Gulfshore Drive and Vanderbilt Beach
Road, home to the Ritz-Carlton Beach Resort and Vanderbilt Beach Park.
Delnor-Wiggins Pass is coveted for its amenities that give visitors the
opportunity to enjoy nature’s bounty, from snorkeling, sun worshipping and
swimming to fishing and kayaking along estuaries and scuba diving the
hard-bottom reef of the Gulf. Gulfshore Drive ends at Vanderbilt Beach’s
southern boundary and is lined by condos, resorts and the occasional
single-family home. Vanderbilt Beach Park offers sugary beaches and newly added
parking, thanks to a new parking garage. Residents and beach visitors soon
discover the area’s close-to-everything amenities, including top-star dining at
Baleen in LaPlaya Beach & Golf Resort; Da Ru Ma, a Japanese steak house; or
the Turtle Club, part of the quaint Vanderbilt Beach Resort.
The 2,100-acre
Pelican Bay community occupies the sprawling span of land between Vanderbilt
Beach Road and Seagate Drive. Only a handful of luxury high-rises and The
Strand, an exclusive triple-gated neighborhood of just a dozen multistory
Mediterranean homes, enjoy an on-the-beach venue. Developer WCI Communities,
however, brings the beach to Pelican Bay residents, who can opt for membership
privileges in a private beach club. Prime shopping is close by at the tony
Waterside Shops, where a recent renovation yielded a more contemporary look and
exclusive boutiques such as Gucci, Burberry, Hermès, Tiffany & Co. and other
high-end designers and retailers. Other symbols of Naples’ growing cultural
cachet are the newly renovated Naples Grande Resort and entertainment options at
the nearby Naples Philharmonic Center for the Arts and Naples Museum of
Art.
Neighboring Clam Pass Beach Park marks the northern point of Naples
proper and its 10 miles of beaches that earned kudos in 2005 from the Travel
Channel as America’s Best All-Around Beach. Beaches stretch along Gulf Shore
boulevards north and south from Seagate Drive to Gordon Pass, the southernmost
point of the famous Port Royal neighborhood. The coastal boulevard passes
elegant high-rises, high-end resorts and restaurants, and offers glimpses of the
Gulf between the homes—an eclectic mix of new estates and older cottages, some
dating back to the late 1880s. Clam Pass’ three-quarter-mile boardwalk winds
through scenic mangrove forests and over coastal dunes en route to the 35-acre
county park, where amenities include picnic areas, rentals and a canoe launch.
Naples Cay and Park Shore, just south of Naples Grande, are mainly high-rise
condo communities, offering a mix of old and new buildings. Naples Cay is set on
33 acres of preserve and the white-sand beach of Clam Bay. Park Shore
incorporates single-family homes and towers along Gulf Shore Boulevard North and
the picturesque and oft-photographed Village on Venetian Bay, an upscale
collection of restaurants, boutiques and galleries.
The northern sweep of
Gulf Shore Boulevard takes in two of Naples’ oldest communities, The Moorings
and Coquina Sands. Both feature mostly single-family homes (with some mid-rise
condos) on larger landscaped lots (some waterfront) and homeowner associations
with beach access. The Moorings, Naples’ largest subdivision with more than
4,000 residents, 1,300 acres and 1,938 homes and apartments, offers many
waterfront homes, including some with mile-long views to the Village on Venetian
Bay, and frontage along Moorings Bay, which provides access to the Gulf at
Doctors Pass. Homes in Coquina Sands are nestled along winding streets lined
with ficus, banyan and palm trees and sidewalks for jogging, biking and walking.
Close to the Fifth Avenue shopping district, the neighborhood is within walking
distance of the resorts along Gulf Shore Boulevard.
Coquina Sands and
Moorings residents are also close to Coastland Center shopping mall, Naples Zoo
at Caribbean Gardens, Fleishmann Park, Naples Community Hospital and perhaps one
of Naples’ best-kept secrets—the 9.5-acre Naples Preserve, a scrub oak community
nestled into the southeast corner of U.S. 41 and Fleischmann Boulevard, just
across from the mall. Although the unique glass and angular architecture of the
preserve’s eco-center should tip off the unsuspecting, visitors delight in the
one-quarter-mile boardwalk and the feeling of traveling back in time and viewing
what Florida looked like some 10,000 years ago.
Beach outposts in
Naples include Lowdermilk Beach Park, offering shade trees, picnic tables,
concessions and sand volleyball; public access points at the eastern boundaries
of Naples’ east-west avenues; and the picturesque Naples Pier, which extends
1,000 feet into the Gulf and is found at the west end of 12th Avenue South. The
pier is especially popular with anglers; a bulk fishing license allows all to
enjoy without an individual license. The facility also offers a concession
stand, bait shop and volleyball nets. It’s another favorite spot to catch a
sunset.
Gulf Shore Boulevard North assumes its southern coordinate at Central
Avenue, and rambles south passing old cottages and multimillion-dollar
beachfront estates, hidden behind thick landscaping. One of Naples’ most
historic homes, the 1895 Palm Cottage, is found along the boulevard close to the
beach. It was the home of Louisville Courier-Journal owner Walter Haldeman, who
helped put Naples on the map. Gulf Shore Boulevard South eventually becomes
Gordon Drive, the western boundary of Port Royal and the Port Royal Club, one of
the world’s most exclusive members-only clubs.